Taos may be a Mecca for artists, but it's also a great place to discover just how long your rope is and what you do when you reach the end. During a recent trip, my traveling companions thought a morning spent horseback riding would be fun. Now I've been on similar treks elsewhere and they've been uninspiring; horses lumbering along in single file, not even a partner to chat with to pass the time. Pedestrian. Boring. But I gave in, partly because I'm sucker for anything that involves horses (there's always hope this one will be different) and partly because there would have been no living with my friends if I refused.
Our guide, Storm, a Taos Indian, saddled us up and guided our horses through Pueblo lands knotted with sage bushes, cedars and coyote lairs. He painted a history of the land, of his life, all the while warning us to be mindful of not falling on the cacti. We snorted but held on a little tighter. My horse groaned incessantly and Storm suggested I consider losing a few pounds. I laughed and said my horse was in a Zen moment and this was his way of meditating. The ride continued with cheesy jokes, sarcastic banter and breathtaking scenery.
As we reached the base of the mountains, Storm whooped and tossed his hat in the air. Our horses knew what to do. So did I - I yanked the reins, closed my eyes and tried not to panic as the horses thundered through the woods and up, up, up. As we charged through a blur of autumn colors, the only thing I heard was the rider ahead of me screaming, “Oh God.” I took that as a signal to duck.
Nearing the first of three clearings, I struggled to catch my breath and began laughing - hysterically. Perched on the side of a mountain, we were hemmed in by a multitude of other mountains vying for space against the intrepid blue sky. To say I've never seen anything more quietly beautiful would be trite - but it would be true. Storm's weather-worn face broke into a smile as we pivoted in our saddles, craning our necks to see it from every angle. Now we were seeing his land, and its quiet beauty settled over me.
I've been to New Mexico a few times, but I've never experienced the land the same as I did that day. And know that I know that the end of my rope is punctuated with maniacal laughter, I'm more than ready to take on Storm and his horses - even if some of them think I'm a little too thick in the saddle.
Taos isn't particularly easy to reach, but it's worth it. Be sure to visit the Chamber of Commerce for a complete listing of B&B's - there are more than 40 in a town of less than 6000 people. And for a spectacular horseback ride, give Storm a call at the Taos Indian Horse Ranch: 1-800-659-3210