Banff National Park, Alberta
Thundering mountains, hot springs and cool glaciers
By James W. Coates
Banff National ParkStanding at the foot of the Rocky Mountains in Banff National Park, the enormity of the peaks is impossible for my brain to process. On my first visit here, I was five. My parents pulled into a motel late one night and we tucked in without looking further than the bathroom. The next morning as we packed our car, we discovered a wall of Alberta's Rocky Mountains towering far above our heads into the clouds. That moment is as solid in my memory as those million-year-old summits.
With more than 1,000 miles (1,609 km) of hiking trails that wind through some of the highest alpine forests in Canada and swerve around turquoise, glacier-fed lakes, you could spend years here and never discover all its hidden treasures.
Dip, Dip and Swing Your Paddle
There are more than 1,000 glaciers in Banff, including the famous Crowfoot Glacier located 21 miles (34 km) from Lake Louise in the heart of the park. It once had three toes, but because of global warming, the large toe has melted. The weather may start off warm as you shove your canoe away from shore, but as you slowly approach these mammoth walls of ice, the temperature plummets to freezing and suddenly you wish you had your parka.
To know this ice is ancient (it's been around since the last Ice Age) and to walk among the towering fjords created in their walls evokes many emotions. “It's like someone sprayed Windex in the crevices - it really is that blue,” says fellow Nomadik Fanadik, Charmian Christie, an avid adventurer from Ontario, after her visit to the glacier area.
Along with hiking, mountain-biking and canoeing, horseback riding is a great way to explore the park. If you have your own horse, you're free to use trails within the park, as long as you follow the guidelines. If you don't own a horse, park outfitters offer trips that last from several hours to a few days. I highly recommend routes to the Banff Upper Hot Springs or Radium Hot Springs where riders can relax and soothe sore muscles in nature's elevated spas.
When it's time to stock up on supplies, the town of Banff offers the best views of the mountains. At an elevation of 4,537 feet, Banff is the highest community in Canada. During a stroll through the sleepy town you may stumble upon some grazing elk; townspeople are so familiar with them that they're as expected as squirrels. Elk are still wild animals though, so keep a respectful distance. Besides elk, Banff is home to bears. Be mindful of warnings and know what to do if you stumble into a dangerous situation.
The big hotels in the area (The Empress and Lake Louise) offer fine cuisine along with a hefty price tag. Whether you're on a budget or travel with your suit, Banff is an accessible, friendly town that caters to a wide variety of budgets. While in town, wander around and check out some of the quaint shops that line the main streets.
Through the eyes of a child, I saw the park for the first time. Now that I'm grown, I feel my child-like wonder sparkle again and again in Banff National Park. Being the park among parks, Banff never fails to inspire and intimidate.
Talk to James about Banff National Park.
