Fundy National Park, New Brunswick
Walking on the ocean floor
By James W. Coates
National Parks
On a clear night in August, I joined an evening tour of the Acadian forest at Fundy National Park in New Brunswick. Lead by an enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide, my group of travelers meandered through dark woods punctuated with the nocturnal sounds of its inhabitants.
We paused under a canopy of trees colonized by a group of the park's native northern flying squirrels playing a noisy game of hide-and-seek. Our guide blindfolded us and left us alone to soak up the sounds of the Fundy nightlife. The moment was eerie but lulling, until a young girl with an overactive imagination began screaming that a moose was attacking her. In the end it was only a shrew, and our group continued along the Caribou Plain Trail.
Keeping Rhythm with the Tides
Located in a funnel-shaped bay separating New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, Fundy National Park has been a national treasure since it opened in 1952. And like many historical parks, it's full of quirky and unusual stories. Our guide told us a body had been found in the bog during construction of the wooded pathway. A murder investigation halted activity for months until forensic experts announced it had been there for nearly 100 years. Due to the bog's preservation capacities, the remains seemed no more than a week old.
Boggy plains and thick woodlands are only part of Fundy's charm. Stretching 93 miles (150 km), the oddly shaped bay is home to the highest tides in the world. Local folklore tells the story of the giant baby, Paul Bunyan. His parents made a cradle out of the Bay of Fundy, and when he awoke, he rocked his cradle so hard that the water is still sloshing back and forth today. A second, less imaginative explanation (but a more likely one) is that the bay becomes narrower at one end and its natural oscillation, called a seiche, forces the water higher and higher (up to 55 feet / 17 meters).
At low tide, visitors can amble along the ocean floor and marvel in the variety of sea creatures that thrive in this harsh amphibian environment. It seemed unbelievable, as I strolled around tide-chiseled flowerpot rocks at Hopewell Cape, that every day water rises as much as 52 feet (16 m), making the rocks separate islands accessible only by boat. The thundering tides have trapped more than a few hikers for an unexpected overnight stay.
Following a full day of vigorous outdoor activities in the fresh air, take a trip back to the gateway village of Alma (you must pass through it to get into the park). While their boats sit stranded on small boxes at low tide, fishermen sell fresh catches of scallops and lobster on the wharf. And don't forget to stop for a sticky bun. Baked fresh daily, these giant cinnamon rolls are smothered in gooey icing and are the stuff dreams are made of. They're a weight watcher's nightmare, but with all the outdoor activities Fundy National Park has to offer, burning them off won't be a problem.
Talk to James about Fundy National Park.
